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The Fashion File: A Splash of Chanel
Posted 2009-11-03 10:48:25 by Krista Nielson
Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel brought the "c" word to fashion: comfort, casual, couture, classic and chic. Chanel is one of the most famous designers of all time and her impact on fashion is everlasting. She was the first designer to be inspired by the street, and the first to turn a sailor's sweater into a high fashion women's pullover. She brought us women's trousers, the cardigan, the little black dress, the shoulder bag, the rope of pearls and sling-back pump. She was one of the first women to understand the power of branding her name; today Chanel is one of the most recognized and highly sought-after designer brands.
I have always been inspired by Chanel; she was a trendsetter before there were trends, creating and inventing along her way. With a daring attitude, she personified the modern woman and became a timeless symbol of success. Her striking red lips, her energy and boldness made her a celebrity. I can only imagine how the paparazzi would be stalking her today.
Born on August 19, 1883, into a poor and modest family, Gabrielle Chanel was orphaned at a young age and grew up in a convent school where she acquired her sewing skills. As a young woman, Chanel became a cabaret singer, entertaining audiences who called her "Coco," the name that would stay with her forever.
She started her career by opening a millinery shop in Paris in 1912. Chanel's straw hats were simple and stylish in contrast to the overly-embellished hats worn by high society. Her style was original, unpredictable and effortless. At a time when France was prosperous and fashion was over-the-top, she was changing what was acceptable to wear. She restyled men's jackets, shirts and trousers for women and only designed things that she would wear herself.
Chanel was determined to project an image of simplicity and elegance to fit the modern woman who didn't have time for corsets, glitz and glamour, but still wanted to look fashionable. Replacing the corset with comfort, her trademark themes included jersey sweaters and dresses, white collars and cuffs, tweed suits and the very controversial women's trousers.
In 1921, she launched her first perfume, Chanel No. 5, which was the world's most expensive perfume at the time. Its success has never been matched by another fragrance, and most likely never will be. It was Marilyn Monroe who, when asked what she wore to bed, famously replied, "A splash of Chanel No. 5." Although not my fragrance of choice, it is still one of the most popular perfumes in the world.
Fashion legend has it that Chanel created the first little black dress. Searching for something to wear to the theatre in 1926, Chanel debuted a little black dress that was praised by Vogue as the "new uniform of the modern woman." It represented all that Chanel stood for: comfort, practicality and self-assured sexiness.
She continued to be a major force in fashion until the beginning of WWII. In 1939, she closed her couture house, prompting protests from New York high society to the Parisian aristocracy, and, except for her legendary fragrances, nothing else was produced under the Chanel label. However, after the war in 1954, Chanel reopened the couture house, coming out of retirement at the age of 71. During this time, Christian Dior was recognized as Paris's premiere couturier. Challenging the Dior "New Look," Chanel introduced the famous braided tweed suit, costume jewelry and quilted handbags. Her comeback restored her position in the high ranks of haute couture.
Chanel's quilted chain-handle handbag, the Chanel 2.55 (named after the month and year it debuted, Feb. 1955), is still as popular today as it was in the '50s. Because of the shoulder strap, it was considered a revolutionary bag; allowing women to carry their purse on their arm instead of in their hand. Now, on the arms of the rich and famous and young fashionistas in New York during Fashion Week, it represents the epitome of style and class.
Few designers have a legacy that matches that of Chanel's. After her death in 1971, her signature fashion styles continued with the Chanel brand. Now headed by Karl Lagerfeld, he has updated Chanel's traditional classic staples with his own individual touches without losing the connection to the past. By adding glamour and sexiness with a fresh young attitude, Chanel remains an iconic, coveted and fashion-forward brand.
Numerous books and movies have depicted the life and legacy of Chanel, most recently is the French film, "Coco Before Chanel" opening Nov. 6 at the Broadway Theater. Starring Audrey Tautou (from "The DaVinci Code"), the film portrays Chanel's early years as she discovers herself and establishes her designing career. As a lover of all things fashion and Chanel, I enjoyed the movie.
Everything about Chanel's life, love and personality found its way into her work and her signature styles continue to influence fashion and designers today. In an industry of constantly changing trends, Chanel's classic designs will always be in style. Chanel once said "A girl should be two things: classy and fabulous," and that's advice I'm going to take!
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